If you own one of our stands, and it's gotten a little disheveled over time, here is our process for getting it back into shape.
If you have a 20’ wide stand, here are the parts you should have, and what it looks like fully assembled. (Note this diagram does NOT show the straps and ground stakes, which are required if you use the mural outdoors).
HOWEVER---If you have a 16' or 12' stand, some of these parts (in the gray boxes) might be missing. If you have a 16' wide stand, you'll only have four TOPS and four BOTTOMS. If you have a 12' wide stand, you'll only have three TOPS and three BOTTOMS, and only one MIDDLE.
Let's start with the TOPS and BOTTOMS.
All the TOP and BOTTOM pieces will have the little silver "Spring Pegs" sticking out near the ends. The pieces on either end will only have a Spring Peg on one end, while the pieces in the middle will have Spring Pegs on both ends. For the pieces that have two, we made both Spring Pegs point in the same direction---so they should line up when you look down the pieces like we're doing in this first photo. Make sure that looks correct--that nobody has modified or moved the Spring Peg holes.
Also make sure the ends of these tubes are still round. If they get smooshed or dinged, try fitting it into whatever connector it's supposed to fit into. If it has trouble fitting, this is a fairly soft aluminum, so you can use a pair of pliers to gently round it out.
All but one of your TOPS and all but one of your BOTTOMS should have one of these "Inline Connectors", as shown in the next photo. The last piece in the series doesn't need it---so with a 20' stand, the A-B-C-D pieces should have them, and E should not.
Make sure the Inline Connectors are on the correct ends of the pieces---one end should have a sticker that says something like "This is a TOP B, stick this end into TOP A." You want the Inline Connector to be on the OTHER end of the piece, so it can receive the next piece down the line.
If you have a 20' or a 16' stand, you'll have two TOPS and two BOTTOMS that have a plastic "T-Connector" in the middle of it. You want these T-Connectors to be in the middle of the piece, and you want them to point in the same direction as the Spring Pegs---like in the next photo. Now, when you put all the TOPS together, the two T-Connetors will point in the same direction. (If you have a 12' stand, you'll only have one of these, so don't worry about this step.)
You SHOULDN'T need to use a hex key to move the T-Connector around---you should be able to just loosen the two Hand Knobs to slide it and rotate it.
However, you should still check the back side to make sure they're correct. The back side of the T-Connectors--shown in the next photo--should have a little hex bolt instead of a hand knob. Note that the hex knob should be tighted just enough that it looks like this photo---you want a gap that's just big enough to slide a fingernail through. You DON'T want this gap all the way closed, as the opening side of the T won't close enough to grab the next piece.
If the gap doesn't look like this photo, then someone has used a hex key to change it. You should adjust it to look like this, then discourage the use of a hex key to change it.
There's one more thing to think about with the T-Connectors on the TOPS and BOTTOMS. You want the T-Connectors on both the B pieces to be the same distance from the end. You want to do this so that when you go to connect the MIDDLE support posts later, the T-Connectors are lined up. Do the same thing on the D pieces. (If you have a 16' stand, you'll do this on both B pieces and both C pieces. If you have a 12' stand, you do this with both B pieces.)
Now lets look at the SIDES. There are lots of things to check, so let's start by telescoping it out. Loosen the knob on the "Telecollar" piece, then slide the center section out until you see the etched arrow. Line the arrow up with the arrow etched on the plastic Telecollar---like this next photo.
Also, check to make sure you have this D-Ring, attached in this position. You want it pointing out in the same direction as the hardware on the plastic Telecollar, as shown.
Last thing, check to make sure the two Telecollars are lined up. You want the hardware on both Telecollars pointing in the same direction (sorry, no photo for this). Everything lines up from these two Telecollars, so this is important. If they are NOT lined up, use a hex key to spin the one the middle one to line it up with the bottom one.
Next let's check the top area. You should have a T-Connector on the top end, and there should also be an eye bolt---like in the next photo. Note that the T-Connector should point in the opposite direction of the round "eye" part of the eye bolt.
Next let's look at the bottom. You should have a T-Connector below the Telecollar, and then a little bit of the tubing sticking out the bottom---like the next photo. You want enough of this tubing sticking out so that it fits into the T-Connector on the FOOT. You also want the T-Connector to be in line with the as shown. See how the back sides with the hex bolt hardware are lined up? If yours doesn't look like this, spin the T-Connector until it does.
Next, look down it from the top end---like these next two photos. The T-Connectors at the top and the bottom SHOULD be sticking out in the same direction, and the eye bolt and the D-ring in the middle should be sticking out in the opposite direction.
IF THE T-CONNECTORS DON'T LINE UP... First check that the etched arrows are lined up---the first step we did with the SIDE instructions. If the arrows are lined up, next check to make sure the two Telecollars are lined up. If the etched arrows are lined up, and the Telecollars are lined up, and the T-Connectors still don't line up, then the most likely issue is that the upper sections of the two SIDE pieces could have been swapped. (i.e. In takedown, someone pulled the upper telescoping pieces out, rather than sliding them back in for storage. Then the next person wouldn't know which upper section goes with with lower section and put them in the wrong lower sections.) Try swapping the two upper sections, then follow the SIDE steps again, and see if that resolves the issue.
Next let's look at the MIDDLES. The MIDDLES are similar to the SIDES, just easier. Extend them just like the sides. Note that there is an arrow etched on the upper metal section but there is NOT an etched arrow on the plastic Telecollar. Also, there won't be the D-Ring on the Middle.
At the bottom of the MIDDLE, there should be a Telecollar, with enough tubing sticking out the bottom for it to fit into the next Telecollar.
Next let's look at the FEET. First make sure the T-Connector is in good shape. If a T-Connector is going to break, this is the most likely one.
Next, make sure the T-Connector is in the middle of the tube. It's not vital that it be exactly in the middle, just close.
Then make sure that the T-Connector is pointed in the opposite direction of the rubber knob things on each end. Again, it's not vital this be exact, but get it close.
This should get your stand back in order. If you have any questions, please call us at 801-296-6644.